Pilling, Abrasion and Rubbing Colourfastness: What's the Difference?

Pilling assesses changes to a fabric's surface appearance. Abrasion testing assesses wear under specified rubbing conditions. Rubbing colourfastness, also called crocking, assesses colour transferred to another material. These tests address different risks: a good result in one does not establish good results in the others.

A specification that only asks for "good friction resistance" can leave the buyer and supplier discussing different properties.

Which question does each test answer?

Property	Main question	Method example
Pilling	How does the surface change after the specified treatment?	ISO 12945-2: modified Martindale pilling
Abrasion	When does the specimen meet the breakdown criterion under the specified rubbing conditions?	ISO 12947-2: Martindale specimen breakdown
Rubbing colourfastness	Does colour transfer to the rubbing cloth in dry or wet testing?	ISO 105-X12: colourfastness to rubbing

These are specific examples. Not every abrasion assessment uses specimen breakdown as its endpoint, and not every order needs this exact set of methods.

Does a good pilling grade mean good abrasion resistance?

No. A fabric can develop fuzz or pills before it wears through. A favourable pilling result also does not measure how long it will withstand abrasion.

ISO 12945-2:2020 assesses pilling, fuzzing or matting using a modified Martindale method. ISO 12945-1:2020 uses a rotating pilling box. Both can produce appearance assessments, but the methods should not be treated as interchangeable.

Before comparing reports, check the edition and procedure, operating conditions, assessment stage and sample preparation. Was each sample tested as received or after agreed washing? Copying only the final grade strips away information needed to judge the comparison.

Why can two Martindale reports mean different things?

Martindale pilling and Martindale abrasion are separate methods. An equipment name is not a complete test description.

The abrasion example here, ISO 12947-2:2016, concerns specimen breakdown. Keep the test conditions and endpoint alongside the cycle count.

"No breakdown at the agreed stopping point" is different from "breakdown recorded at that point." Neither statement should be converted into a guaranteed number of years of wear.

Scope matters as well: this method does not apply to coated or laminated fabrics. If the proposed material has such a construction, ask the laboratory to confirm a suitable assessment rather than applying the same method because the base fabric is knitted.

Does wet rubbing cover perspiration colourfastness?

No. ISO 105-X12:2016 addresses colour transfer through dry and wet rubbing. ISO 105-E04:2013 addresses colourfastness under perspiration exposure. The results answer different questions.

Read dry and wet rubbing separately. Match the report to the actual colour, finish and submitted sample or batch; do not assume one colour result covers an entire range.

For dark garments, contrast panels or next-to-skin products, discuss whether perspiration or other relevant colourfastness assessments are also needed. That is a use-based planning suggestion, not a claim that every dark fabric will fail.

How can buyers avoid paying for the wrong tests?

Describe the failure you want to assess. Is the concern surface pilling, inner-leg wear or staining a lighter garment? If all three matter, each needs relevant evidence. Paying for one test does not resolve the other risks simply because they all involve rubbing.

Existing reports may be useful if sample identity, colour and batch coverage, methods and conditions match, and the customer accepts them. Where they do not, agree what needs additional testing. A new construction or finish should prompt a relevance review rather than automatic reliance on the previous report.

This is a discussion framework, not a fixed FJORATEX test package or fee commitment. Scope, sampling, acceptance criteria and retesting responsibilities need agreement for each order. Customer requirements and applicable product-safety testing must be considered separately.

What should the specification say?

List the required properties separately, with the method, conditions and acceptable result for each. For pilling, specify the assessment stage. For abrasion, agree the endpoint. For rubbing colourfastness, distinguish dry and wet conditions and identify the colours covered.

If the material construction is still being selected, our single jersey versus interlock guide provides context; structure alone does not replace the test evidence.

FJORATEX is a knit fabric development and sourcing partner. Bring a reference fabric, end use, colour range and the surface or wearing problems you want to avoid to a project discussion.

See yoga leggings fabric testing for a garment-focused application, or the knit fabric test report guide for a broader report checklist.

Sources

Official method summaries were checked on 3 September 2026. The references describe scope; they do not supply universal pass grades, abrasion-cycle requirements or garment-lifetime guarantees.

• ISO 12945-2:2020: modified Martindale pilling
• ISO 12945-1:2020: pilling box method
• ISO 12947-2:2016: Martindale abrasion specimen breakdown
• ISO 105-X12:2016: rubbing colourfastness
• ISO 105-E04:2013: perspiration colourfastness